Taking advantage of the vehicle inspection, I decided to make a major renovation of the interior. -Install the floorboards. ~ | MOBY [モビー]

MOBY introduces an article written by a writer who actually enjoys staying in the car and camping car from the web magazine DRIMO, which distributes information on camping, staying in the car, van life, outdoor & car trips, including camping car information. To do. *The contents of the following article are quotes and references from DRIMO

This year, taking the opportunity of the vehicle inspection, I peeled off the carpet and lining in the living room (originally the cargo room) of my E25 caravan, leaving the back seat and the back almost naked.

About the situation, it is as I wrote in the article “I decided to make a major renovation of the interior after the vehicle inspection. ~ Peel off the carpet and lining. ~”.

Of course, this is not the end of the story.

Rather, it’s time to get to the heart of the matter.

I’m going to replace the flooring with new flooring and the lining of the ceiling and side walls, but I hope that it will be helpful for those who are thinking about DIY, so in this article, I will go through the flooring, how to select materials, the conditions for vehicle inspection, and the work plan. I would like to introduce a little more about how to set up, how to proceed, and the work process.

Materials for interiors that are compliant with vehicle inspections

As you know, Japan is a country with strict regulations regarding car modifications.

For example, there seems to be no mistake in thinking that such a thing is absolutely impossible in Japan.

It can be said that Japan has a low degree of freedom when it comes to remodeling, but when you think about the possibility of accidents caused by highly dangerous remodeling or poor maintenance, and the possibility of being exactly the same, even harsh things are generally bad things. is not.

In Japan, there are strict regulations regarding the materials that can be used for car interiors, including flooring.it is not okay to use whatever material you like.

There is a rule that the material must be flame-retardant, and if the material is not compatible with this, there is a high possibility that the car inspection will not pass.

If you are thinking about reupholstering the interior, you need to pay attention to this point first.

The interiors of most cars today are covered in fabrics and plastics, including synthetic leather.

If this fabric or plastic is replaced,Cases where submission of a flame retardant certificate is required at the time of vehicle inspectionThere seems to be

And in fact, there seems to be almost no doubt that materials with the Japan Auto-Body Industries Association (JABIA) mark and registration number must be used.

In short, materials that are readily available at home centers cannot be used, and it is difficult to reupholster the inner lining.

There is a possibility that the car inspection will not pass even if you put wallpaper etc. properly.

On the other hand, styles like Vanlife prefer bare wood interiors that aren’t covered by that sort of stuff.

However, since even the fabric is so strict, I’m worried if the car inspection will be okay if I use wood for the lining.

However, it can be said that this is surprisingly loose, and it is a lower hurdle than reupholstery.

for woodFlame-retardant material with a thickness of 3 mm or moreis supposed to be defined as

If you use wood, you don’t have to worry about vehicle inspections, so it’s convenient for DIYers.

but,If the weight increases too much, there is a possibility that the vehicle inspection will not pass as it is.So you have to be careful about that.

Also, I think it would be nice to have an interior that looks like a mountain lodge with solid wooden planks, but I want to give priority to practicality (this project started from the fact that I wanted to do something about carpets that are difficult to clean in the first place). You have to strike a balance here.

I don’t want to spend too much money.

The funds that can be spent are scarce.

For example, even if the walls on the side that are almost hidden by shelves, chests, containers, etc. are covered with solid boards, it will only increase the cost and weight, and there is not much meaning.

It makes sense to save cost and weight in those areas.

Therefore, we decided to use different materials depending on the location, and of course we chose materials with an emphasis on ease of use.

The main materials selected were 5 mm thick veneer, 3 mm thick veneer, cedar paneling material that was sold at outlet prices at home centers, and SPF 1×4 material.

Materials selected for flooring

For the floorboards, we also considered using solid flooring materials that look good.

However, if you stick it vertically, it is easy to sweep out dust, sand, and water droplets toward the back door with a broom, but if you try to sweep it out toward the side door, sand tends to get caught in the joints of the boards, and water tends to seep into the joints. can be predicted.

The reason why I am so particular about sand and water is that I have many opportunities to load equipment for use in the sea, but similar things can happen in muddy systems such as MTB and snow sports.

At the stage of material selection, I think it would be a good idea to conduct a simulation in light of your own usage.

In terms of materials, soft wood is relatively light in weight, but is prone to scratches and dents.

It may be fine if you don’t need to carry heavy items in and out, but at least it’s not suitable for my use.

Hard wood is strong but tends to be heavy.

And in any case, of course, the solid flooring material costs a certain amount of money.

Above all, I think it’s good for people who value appearance, but for the above reasons, I refuse to use solid flooring materials.

Therefore, I thought of using plywood of the size of a single tatami mat next.

Once varnished, plywood does not look bad at all, and it is easy to clean as there are fewer seams.

The first thing that came to my mind was to use structural plywood or OSB, which is sturdy and most common, about 12mm thick or 10mm thick.

However, to fill a floor surface of about 3m x 1.5m, nearly three pieces of plywood are required.

If you imagine lifting three control panels at once, you can see that this also leads to a considerable increase in weight.

You don’t need to go this far if you don’t put heavy objects on it frequently.

The floor of the luggage compartment is press-formed with ridges to give it strength, not a flat plate.

If the ridges are normally lined up regularly, it seems that the thickness of the board to be laid is 3mm, which meets the flame retardant standards, and there seems to be no problem.

This seems to be quite light, but the ridges are not lined up regularly and there are wide recessed parts in some places, so the 3mm thickness is somewhat unreliable.

However, if the thickness is 5 mm, I thought that there would be no problem if the wide recessed part was stuffed with something to adjust the height.

If the weight is 5 mm, it will be less than half of 12 mm by simple calculation.

So I chose lauan plywood with a thickness of 5 mm.

I decided to apply varnish on it.

Opportunistic construction method and work process

When carrying out such works,There are two methods: one is to first create detailed blueprints and then work on it, and the other is to go ahead with the work while thinking on the spot after making a rough plan..

Even if I draw simple diagrams, I am completely the latter type.

It seems like a crude way of proceeding with the work, but since I am an amateur after all, I am aware that things will not go according to plan.

And the latter is often more flexible and less frustrating when things don’t go according to plan.

Also, sometimes good ideas come to mind during construction.

Or rather, in my case, it’s overwhelmingly more often that good ideas come to me while I’m fiddling with them rather than just thinking about them in my head.

This is a part that varies greatly depending on the personality and skill level of the person, so it is not possible to say which is better or correct, but since it is not a job requested by a person, the plan will change as the work progresses. I think that it is only possible to enjoy the work of amateurs.

So, of course, there are no blueprints that I can show you.

From here, I would like to introduce how to proceed with the work with this ad hoc construction method.

First of all, about the wood removal of the floorboards.

If you try to fill a floor of about 3m x 1.5m with boards of 1.8m x 0.9m, you will need at least three boards in terms of area.

If you don’t use it well, you’ll need 4 of them, but I want to reduce waste as much as possible.

There are several methods and combinations of wood trimming, but I thought about how to manage it well using three boards.

The legs behind the rear seats are located a little over 80cm from the front edge, but if you place them on a board with a thickness of 5mm, you won’t be able to lock them. It must be (although the floorboards have already been temporarily placed in the above image because I didn’t shoot in the original state).

Since the position of this leg is a little more than 80 cm from the front edge, it is reasonable to cut out one piece using the board in the horizontal direction in front of the leg part behind the seat. .

I decided to consider this first.

And if you use the same board in the horizontal direction to cut out two pieces, the total of the three pieces will fill the floor for about 270 cm.

However, if the standard plate is pasted sequentially, a seam will be formed in the rear part of the luggage compartment.

However, it is not preferable to have a seam in a portion where luggage is frequently put in and taken out.

So, after pasting the frontmost board that serves as a reference, this time I pasted two boards from the back, leaving a groove for the two boards and the position where the rear legs of the rear seat rest, leaving a little less than 30 cm. I decided to fill the gap with the leftover material.

The image above shows the temporarily placed first sheet from the front and the first sheet from the back of the cut-out standard.

And the image below is where all the cut materials are temporarily placed.

In this image, the board that fills the gap is divided into two pieces, and it feels like it’s patched together, but this is just the recessed part of the iron plate on the floor, and the part that needs to be raised in a slightly wider range. is.

If you connect these two pieces with a batten from the back, you can kill two birds with one stone by raising the height of the batten, and there will be no problem at all (you can see it in the image after completion).

Just thinking about it from the beginning doesn’t work.

This is also an advantage of the genbutsu-matchi method.

Next, how to cut the board.

Using the peeled carpet as a template, a line is drawn on the board, and the board is cut out along the line with a jigsaw, so the work is not so difficult.

This is the last important role of the carpet.

However, the properties of a rigid material like a board are different from those of a flexible and adaptable material.

Even if the shape of the carpet was accurately traced onto the board, there were areas where the carpet would have fit, but there were areas where the board would not fit.

It’s a pity to cut too much, so it’s a work that needs a little patience.

The inside of the car is surprisingly made up of complicated lines instead of squares and four sides.

It is necessary to be prepared to repeat such work.

For the base of the leg in front of the rear seat, first drill four holes in the four corners of the square, then cut out the square with a jigsaw.

Even if the shape is slightly inaccurate, there is no problem because the plastic cover is attached after installation.

The first board from the front cannot be laid without removing the rear seat, but it has been confirmed that the rear seat can be put back once the board is temporarily placed.

It is better to keep in mind that there will always be times when you try to temporarily place something in such a craft and it turns out not to be what you expected.

Such confirmation is absolutely necessary.

Putting the rear seats on and off is a lot of hard work, but repeating this work without being lazy is one of the keys to success.

The image below is one of the simulations before fixing the floorboards.In this renovation, we decided to move the angled shelves that had been installed on the right side to the left side.

And at this point, I still couldn’t decide what to do with the bed, such as using the back seat as part of the bed or making the bed independent of the back seat.

Sitting directly on the floor in this state or sitting on a low container box and thinking about such things, I realized that even with a caravan with a standard roof, if you sit in a low position, the ceiling height is quite high, and the interior feels much more spacious than before. I just noticed.

In the case of a VAN that is the size of a registered car and is designed for sleeping in the car, it is common to raise the floor and install a fixed bed, but installing a bed also means not wasting the protruding part of the tire house. Also, since most of the beds are storage rooms, it’s a rational idea.

However, when you actually use it, the storage under the bed is never easy to use.

It occurred to me that if I put the cot in this way, there would be plenty of storage space under it, so I realized that even with this method, the storage space would never be reduced.

Rather, it seems to be flexible and easy to use.

I tried both when the rear seat was put out and when it was folded.

I even tried sleeping directly on the floor.

I repeat this process over and over again as I work, but I spend more time trying and thinking about things than actually working on them.

However, this is a very important time for me because it is quite fun and it is also a time when interesting ideas come to my mind.

And I came up with a rather groundbreaking and interesting idea, but I will write about it in the article after it is completed.

This time, the state until the completion of the floor covering.

flooring work

After confirming everything, remove the floorboards (remove the rear seats as well) and paint before installation.

Two coats of colored water-based varnish were applied.

A little more expensive than oily? It feels like it, but water-based is easy and convenient to clean up.

Also, when I think about recoating in the car where I installed it someday,It is wise not to choose oil-based paint with a strong smellis.

The color is a little yellowish, but I chose it in anticipation of it being a little darker due to dirt and smoldering.

In the article on removing the floor and lining, I wrote that I decided to install the plastic cover part of the side step not in the original method, but in a different way, and that is embedding the nut with a hand nutter.

A hand nutter is a tool that looks very similar to a hand riveter, but instead of a rivet, it is a tool that can fix a nut to a thin plate-like material such as an iron plate.

Attach the dedicated nut to the nosepiece of the nutter, drill a hole in the material you want to attach the nut to (here, widen the diameter of the original hole with a drill), insert it into the hole, and squeeze the lever of the nutter. The back of the nut expands and is fixed to the board.

The shape is similar, but the mechanism is very similar to the hand riveter.

Like the hand riveter, the back side of the plate is blocked like thisA very convenient tool that can be used even in parts where nuts cannot be inserted on the back sideis.

However, the Nutter is a slightly special tool that could not be found at the local hardware store, so I ordered it from a tropical jungle.

When the nut is fixed, it looks like this (the silver ring is the nut, although the image is not clear).

In addition, the carpet was fixed under the edges of the plastic cover, which was also one of the factors that made it difficult to sweep the sand out with a broom.

Therefore, the plate was placed on top of the edge of the plastic cover instead of being sandwiched under it.

It looks like this when fixed with screws.

The screws are new and shiny, but the appearance is floating, but it will become dull and familiar, so there is no problem.

The hand nutter is very useful not only for this part, but also for fixing the inner lining of the side wall after this.

That story is another opportunity.

As shown in the image above, scraps were placed in the wide part of the dent to adjust the height, and double-sided tape was applied across the entire surface of the joint between the boards so that there would be no gaps.

The fixing method of the board is basically only double-sided tape except for the part of the side step.

However, thanks to the notches for the tire house, it will not move even if it is not taped.

floor covering completed

And it looks like all the boards are finished.

At this point, the rear seats have not been put back yet, but put a 1×6 piece of material with a slip stopper on the back side in the grooves for the rear legs of the rear seats (when using the rear seats, use this plate removed).

Looking from the side door side it looks like this.

The side walls are still bare, and nothing looks interesting at this point, but I realize that it’s easier to clean during work and easier to use.

The above is the whole picture of the flooring work using my own ad-hoc construction method.

Please look forward to the side wall and ceiling replacement version after this.

Writer: Satan Kasahara

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